SEIDOZERO expedition

5 days in the wild at nothern mystique lake

Kolsky 2017


I had already hiked in Lovozero tundra mountains a year before that trip. I was there with a group of tourists leaded by brave professional instructor. That was my first real serious many days hike. I was so impressed by spectacular nature around us that I desided to come back and repeat that adventure. But by my own rules, with corrected route and with my own team.

I was planning my new hike to nothern mountains almost all winter and spring. I was thinking about hiking alone, but finally I decide to find a team to go together. I found in Internet a couple from Moscow and another one guy from Saint-Petersburg. We made final planning together and in the and of August we were ready to go.

The best season for visiting Kolsky peninsula is the end of summer or beginning of autumn. Most of snow melted in June, most of mosquitos are already not so active. Colours of mosses and bushes are becaming brightly saturated. Possibility of rains is higher in autumn, but you should be ready to be wet anytime in Lovozero tundra mountains anyway.

Guys from Moscow were coming by train to Saint-Petersburg. So we met all together at the train station in the morning and continued our way north by car. Driving all day long finally we came to the monument "Polar Circle" on the Cola highway. Completely tired we found a place for our tents not far in the woods and got some sleep.

Next morning after breakfast we drove back to the road. Last 300 km to destination were very exciting. Flatlands were turning to hills and mountains. We drove near Khibiny mountains and leaved main road. We reached small town Revda and drove to mines at the foot of Lovozero tundra mountains. Car was parked at the entrance to mines factory. Tourists are allowed to pass thru. We put our backpacks on and started way up.

Lovozero tundra is a circle of flat-top stowny mountains up to 1000 meters high. In the middle of this circle is situated amazing pure lake Seidozero. Mistically beautiful lake with a lot stories about it. True stories about brave geologists and lost tourists. And not so true stories about Yetti, shamans and old civilizations located here long time ago. Relict woods covers Seidozero's shores.

We hiked up to the path between mountains. So much sharp stones! We are creeping down to the valley and entering woods area. Small streams flows under the stones, coming together into a bigger stream with wide watercourse, hiding under the stones again and flowing ahead to the greate lake.

We moved out from the main path and went thru the wild places for a while. Then we found a ford across Chinglusuai stream. We failed to cross stream and stay dry, each one of us had stumbled on slimy stones and our shoes was completely wet. But we had already rached the destination for the first day. We palaced a camp at the entrance to Chinglusuai canyon.

Next day we leaved our heavy stuff in the camp and started radial walk thru the canyon up to the plateau and futrher to the highest point of Lovozero tundra mountains - Angvundaschorr peack (1126m). We were going up along the stream a few hours and then we were climbing up by wet rocks. When we reached the plateau big wet cloud surruonded us. Rain started.

I had spended many hours discovering different kind of maps of that canyon while route planning. I thougth that we can't get lost. And I was shure that I clearly remember which direction we are came from. But inside the cloud everything around us was disappearing in deep milk, stones far then 30-40 meters ahead on that flat highlands was completely invisible. I was cheking our position by GPS in smartphone from time to time, saving battery. But it was really hard to determine our mooving direction without GPS track recording. I felt myself in charge of our team, so it was very uncomfortable to admit that we were lost. Our tents and all the stuff were far down at the entrance to the canyon. And I wasn't sure where that canyon is.

We found Angvundaschorr highest point and way back just because we had GPS and some luck additionally.

Way back was much faster then way up. Not just because we knew the way and because we were going down. A lot of wild angry mosquitos found us and start their bloody chase! We were literally running slaping ourselves all the time. We were so happy when we finally came back to our tents!

Next morning we continued our way to Seidozero lake. We came to lake shore in a couple of hours. When I was here a year before I was very tired and I thought that we will spend the whole day to reach the lake and to found a place for new camp. But we found an excellent place fastly. That was the same place where I've been last year! Greate flat ground between old trees hidden from main trail. We had a good dinner and then I climbed up to the rock above trees near the giant black silhouette. That is a big mark on the rock looking like a man-warrior. You can see that figure from very long distance, from the other lake shore. Many legends associated with this figure.

Heavy showers were coming with us from that day. We were discovering another canyon from the west, then relocate our camp further to east. Guys took a walk to greate lake Lovozero, to Motka bay. I was there last time and I was in a bad mood because of rains, so I stayed at the camp.

Finally comes time to go back. And that was most hard part. We were slowly ascending to plateau and then we were going throu the fields of infinite rocks. The weather was calm at the lake but on highlands strong winds with cold showers were blowing all the time. We couldn't see the trail from time to time, but we found old geological road for hard vehicles. Very long way ended in a place where it was started. That was first time when I had to pour out water from my pockets. That was so cool changing dry clothes in the car!

Very good adventure finished! I'm planning to return to Seidozero to pass undiscovered trails and made another perfect hike. Lovozero tundra mountains are really magic, I miss those rocks very much.